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A daytime stroll down 16th street can net a weary traveler a slew of Denver’s best eats.

Downtown Denver has no shortage of fine restaurants, but for as long as bikers and Bosnians, BBQ junkies and Philadelphia transplants have been descending upon the Mile High City, they’ve been bringing hot dogs and pastries, cheesesteaks and pulled pork right along with them — and parading their foodstuffs in carts on the sidewalks of the 16th Street Mall, downtown Denver’s pedestrian promenade.

The ubiquitous wiener dog — the kind reserved for ballparks and amusement arcades — has encountered some stiff competition from specialty food carts, turning out up everything from warm Belgian waffles (Waffle Brothers) to Alaskan reindeer sausage (Biker Jim’s). Locals queue up for the pulled pork sandwich at Boney’s Barbecue long before the insanely popular Writer Square cart has unleashed its first ring of smoke, realizing if they arrive too late, the sold-out sign might require an anger management course.

Hawking hot dogs — made with reindeer, elk and antelope — isn’t easy, but cart-crazy denizens know that some of the best food in the city can be found at these outdoor vendors. Street food is quick, convenient and cheaper than the nearest fast food chain, with the fringe benefit of local flavor — both in the food itself and from the vibrant personalities who peddle it. But the real reason to join the lines lies in the aromatic smells that sail through the air, the sounds of onions and peppers sizzling on the griddle and the wacky — and sometimes poignant — stories that you’ll hear about the cast of characters who frequent the area. Cart vendors have their ears pasted to the pavement — they’re full of gossip, street sense and scuttlebutt — which means that they’ll likely know far more about the current political climate than you do.

Boney’s Barbecue
No certified street-cart list is complete without a tribute to barbecue, in particular, Boney’s Barbecue, a faux red-brick bargain brigade that lingers at the southwestern edge of 16th Street and Lawrence, in Writer Square. The scent of smoke, which often induces involuntary drooling, wafts from blocks away, an invitation to partake in the heat of the moment, which, in this case, means beef brisket and pulled pork, smoked and spicy hot links, ribs and medieval-sized turkey legs fit for a caveman. The turkey legs are often the first to fly out of the sliding glass window, although the pulled pork sandwich, best buried under the wrath of fiery barbecue sauce, doesn’t hang around much longer. The cart also dispenses uniformly excellent side dishes, including baked beans riddled with shredded pork, a picnic-worthy potato salad that lives up to its “forkin’ good” description and creamy coleslaw that’s far better than anything you’ll sniff in the deli case.
16th and Lawrence; 303.573.0015

Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs
Jim Pittenger, aka “Biker Jim,” might be Denver’s Food Cart King. For three years, the Alaska native and motorcycle maverick has manned his shiny stainless steel cart at the southwest corner of 16th Street and Arapahoe. He’s there during the work week, unless wind, rain, sleet or snow cause an unforeseen vacation. The gregarious story-teller has amassed a fervent following including politicians, chefs, Armani-clad powerbrokers and certified foodniks who line up for the rotating roster that includes everything from Alaskan reindeer or wild boar sausage to German white-veal brats and elk bratwurst spiked with jalapenos. His cream cheese caulking gun is a gadget of beauty and the add-ons — sauerkraut, grilled onions, horseradish, Sriracha, BBQ sauce, pickles, relish and a spicy mustard blend — rival the condiment aisle at the supermarket. Biting into one of Jim’s dogs is akin to getting your hands on the Hope Diamond.
16th and Arapahoe; 303.550.8231
11 a.m.-4 p.m. Mon.-Fri.
bikerjimsdogs.com

Waffle Brothers
It’s a morning breakfast bonanza at this popular, urbanized stand, where owners John Power and Rod Dupen satiate the hungry crowds with sugared Belgian waffles, gilded gold and crowned with every topping imaginable, including whipped cream, nuts, bananas, kiwis, blueberries, Ghirardelli chocolate chips and fresh-cut strawberries. Nearly all of the waffles are named for locals, including “Steve’s Full House,” a waffle topped with any two fruits, nuts and sprinkles of sugar. Steve, since you asked, is a war veteran who was severely injured in Vietnam when a helicopter literally crashed on his head. When Power and Dupen unleashed their waffle business in 2007, Steve, now a loyal regular, asked the two iron men to “gimme what you got.” What he got was a waffle devoted solely to him.
16th and Tremont; 303.619.1505
7 a.m. - 3 p.m. Tue. - Thu.; 7 a.m. - 10 p.m. Fri.; 9:30 a.m. - 10 p.m. Sat.
wafflebrothers.com

S Ice Cream and Panini
When Bosnia-born Mutic Lilliana moved to Denver in 1994, she dreamed of having her own food cart, and in 1996, her American dream became a full-blown reality. Perched on the corner of 16th Street and Glenarm, Lilliana’s tidy wooden temple of strawberry-stuffed French toast, crepes, paninis, croissants, ice cream and fresh-squeezed lemonade attracts a constant barrage of curiosity-seekers and in-the-know foodophiles who jostle for their spot in line. “I’m running low on turkey panini,” aren’t words that you want to hear escaping from Lilliana’s mouth, especially when you’ve been salivating for a good 15 minutes, so get there before the lunch rush to guarantee the harmonic, but ever so simple assemblage of grilled turkey, provolone, lettuce and tomato mounded on focaccia and smeared with a Vidalia onion dressing.
16th and Glenarm
7:30 a.m. - 9 p.m. Daily.
11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Mon.-Fri.

Issue: 
August 2008
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